Acte TM x Mercedes-Benz ACC-01
The 28 piece sustainable modular capsule collection features upcycled textiles and references the legendary automaker’s archive and DNA.
Images via Matthias Leidinger c/o ActeTM
Berlin has long been a focal point of the European creative community. As the de facto home of the German Expressionist movement during the early 20th century, it became home to a myriad of pioneers across architecture, cinema and painting. In the decades since, the city has consistently attracted cultural entrepreneurs and global artists, solidifying its position as a destination for individuals and businesses associated with the creative arts. Unsurprisingly, one of the most disruptive, distinctive and innovative capsule collections to be actualized recently is the brainchild of a Berlin-based duo.
Founded by artist and designer Philipp Groth and product designer Sascha Huth in 2018, Acte TM is a hybrid of artist pseudonym, brand and creative direction practice. Their creative studio is characterized by a clear, reduced formal language and a love of industrial material – be it in a film, design or art context. Antoni – the lead European agency for the car division of Mercedes-Benz – approached Acte TM with a concept that resonated due in part to the team’s familiarity with the Mercedes-Benz brand and synergies in its design language. ACC-01, a capsule collection by Acte TM and Mercedes-Benz containing 28 individual pieces including bags, bodysuits, capes, hoodies, jackets, skirts and t-shirts that can be combined into various looks, expresses the vision held by both brands of a luxury feeling that is fed by purism and minimalism. “As a result, we were very open to a partnership that would allow us to think together about how sustainability and zeitgeist, emotion and intelligence, luxury and purism can coexist or even merge in the future,” Groth said.
Merging two decidedly distinct perspectives on design would seemingly present a complex series of challenges. Acte TM has carved out a unique design language inspired by industrial, technical and manufacturing objects, while Mercedes-Benz has established a timeless aesthetic rooted in luxury, sport and craftsmanship. Nonetheless, shared philosophies and a desire to incorporate historical production elements facilitated the process. Each piece in the ACC-01 collection is modular and exists in a closed system, hence the syntax that gives the various garments their name. Jointly, this results in a cosmos that finds inspiration in the DNA of Mercedes-Benz – a DNA that has, according to Groth, “the combination of emotion and intelligence in a design that operates away from trends and thus has a timeless effect.” “Since we could also identify with this personally in our work, these attributes became the cornerstones in the design process,” Groth said. “Both the material composition as well as the shape and color design are based on them. Visits to the Mercedes-Benz Museum and to the manufacturer's factory provided additional inspiration and design clues. Since we work with remnants, which themselves have and tell a story, we were also very interested in understanding the history of the Mercedes-Benz brand,” he continued.
The hypothetical vision board behind the ACC-01 collection is also rooted in Mercedes-Benz DNA, which not only forms the basis for each piece, but also flows into the conception and design on several levels. Raw material – which is a historical component of Mercedes-Benz DNA – is present throughout the collection, while the aforementioned symbiosis of the guiding values of emotion and intelligence significantly shape the Mercedes-Benz DNA. Perhaps the most tangible and concrete influence is visible in the details of each piece’s design language: Mercedes-Benz specific and proprietary airbags, body parts, convertible mechanisms, headlight shapes, seat elements and upholstery finishes are all incorporated into the collection. “One designed bag is based on the main module of the Mercedes-Benz interior and even uses the same manufacturing technique through "deep drawing". Through the modular, interchangeable individual parts of the bag, it also picks up the methodology and function of the consoles in the interior,” Groth said. Additionally, models from the Mercedes-Benz archive and subsequently the first Mercedes-Benz racing hoods further informed the collection’s design language.
Progressive shapes, textures and palette suggest a thoughtful approach was utilized in the sourcing of materials throughout the ACC-01 collection. Of this process, Groth notes, “We had the great advantage of knowing the marketing circuits of larger brands, which allowed us to take more unconventional approaches: some raw materials came from set design assets used for commercial shoots. This reuse cycle, by the way, is a process we also strive for in our daily work at Acte TM to make our creations sustainable.” To that end, the organization of the materials can be thought of as a mixture of research and ingenuity. And, it was not just forward-thinking, but also eco-friendly: automotive specific remnants such as discarded car tarpaulins were used. “The challenge was then to process and combine the individual pieces to create a unified look. Our goal was to create a sustainable collection that might not be identifiable as such at first glance, but rather captivates through timelessness and design. So sustainability may soon not be a unique selling point, but the norm,” Groth explained.
The importance of sustainability in the development of the ACC-01 collection cannot be overstated. Acte TM views sustainability in two ways: through local production and through working with its circle of trusted partners. Therefore, the entire collection was created in Berlin, and its textiles were realized in collaboration with Kasia Kucharska, a Berlin-based studio. The underlying idea was to upcycle unused merch textiles from previous years to high-fashion level in order to eliminate the need for production of new merch every year. “We realized that there are many more materials (trade show banners, car covers, manufacturing surplus, etc.) whose recycling gives us even more creative freedom. This extension of the concept also gave us the possibilities to translate the entire DNA of Mercedes-Benz into high-class fashion,” Groth expounded.
Among today’s increasingly discerning consumers, the debate around form vs. function is arguably as prevalent in the automotive industry as it is in fashion. Acte TM perceives substantial overlap between the two industries: the automobile represents a desire for the future and individuality and are also deeply anchored culturally; these traits illustrate its parallels to the world of fashion. Providing a glimpse of the lens through which Acte TM considered form and function in the collection, Groth stated “ With regard to ACC-01, the aspect of emotional expression is exciting on the one hand. You get into a Mercedes-Benz and feel comfortable, safe or self-confident. You become one with the vehicle. It's the same with clothing, which generates emotions. On this level, it is all about appealing to the senses. This happens, for example, through fabrics, sounds, colors and shapes. On the other hand, it is about confirming these feelings through high know-how and technical precision. Because this dynamic is no longer limited to individual industries, it is relevant for both worlds to learn from each other and to enter into synergies.”
The sheer scale of the Mercedes-Benz archive and the interdisciplinary nature of Acte TM iimply limitless impolementations and an expancion of the concept that was realized in the ACC-01 collection into various areas of art and culture. Of this possibility, Groth asserts, “The great role fashion plays in contemporary culture helps us to spread and establish these values and visions together with Mercedes-Benz. Following the credo ‘the medium is the message’, we can rethink through sustainable fashion something that for many people is an important part of their everyday life.”
The ACC-01 collection debuted with an exclusive installation at the “Mercedes-Benz. Creators Night” during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin SS23, which took place at Telegraphenamt.
Discover Acte TM x Mercedes-Benz “ACC-01” at actetm.com.
Art Direction: Acte TM c/o Philipp Groth, Sascha Huth
Color Grading: Delfina Mayer
Creative Agency:antoni garage GmbH & Co. KG
DC Typeface: ABC Dinamo
DIT: Michael Petersohn
DoP: Anton Beliaev
Edit: Vigdis Erla Guttormsdottir
Engineer: Kasia Kucharska
Footwear: Myles Omeally c/o Arete
Hair & Makeup: Marlene Suess, Susanna Jonas
Location Manager: Andreas Fleischhacker
Photography: Matthias Leidinger c/o ActeTM
Post Production: RGBerlin
Pre Communication: Giang Vo
Pre Visuals: Vincent Riese, Frangipani Beatt
Product Design: Acte TM, Julian Ribler, Erik Vogler
Production: Antonia Herting + Hugh Kwofie
Sound: Jason Heath c/o Mosche
Stylist: Alex McFadyen
Talent: Mariam Shokeye, Caterina Granz, Leon Kecman
Textile Management: Luis Luger
Visual Progress: Philip Baz
Release Date: September 2022
