LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S SS22
“Amen Break” provides a powerful glimpse into a stellar collection from Virgil Abloh and a buzzworthy collaboration with Nike.
Images via Louis Vuitton
Upon being named Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Wear in the Spring of 2018, Virgil Abloh’s pioneering design work at Off-White, groundbreaking collaboration with Nike and ability to inject a sense of cool factor into brands simply by aligning with them was well-recognized among consumers, media and his peers worldwide. Still, expectations varied around how – or whether – he could reinvigorate the men’s side of the legendary fashion house with the same degree of success and buzz as his previous ventures. What would he contribute to its longstanding brand identity? How much creative flexibility would he be afforded? From where would he source inspiration for his collections?
As Abloh launches Louis Vuitton Men’s SS22, a couple of things are abundantly clear: 1) there are no constraints on his imagination or his process, and 2) his most prolific creative output has arguably been realized during his brief tenure there. This show – his seventh since taking the helm – incorporated elements of cinematic, cultural and musical references into “Amen Break”, a genius display of the collection through a story that surpasses Abloh’s fashion videos from a directorial and production quality perspective. Through a narrative apparently influenced by “Liquid Swords”, the 1995 platinum album by GZA of Wu-Tang Clan, viewers depart on a swordsman’s dramatic journey from a desert into a portal which leads to a thick maze of birch trees and, ultimately, a hybrid fashion show, chess match and kendo battle. In keeping with Abloh’s “friends and family” approach to his projects, cameo appearances and behind-the-scenes contributions are made by familiar affiliates including Benji B, who orchestrated the soundtrack; Lupe Fiasco, who officiated the kendo clash; Goldie, JIM JOE and Saul Williams. Instrumental to tying in the theme was GZA himself, who skillfully rapped in sync with the background music while fully engaged in a game of chess.
The genius of Amen Break lies in what it manages not to do, in that for all its plot, cinematography, sounds and star power lends to its overall mystique and entertainment value, it does not distract from a vivid presentation of the collection itself. A mix of tracksuits, jeans, skirts, jeans, tailored suits, petticoats, luggage and accessories are on full display in an assortment of colors and neutrals. Present here are myriad design and subculture references to the military, sports, the future, travel, polar climates, timeless formalwear and Just Don, the brand created by Abloh’s longtime friend and associate Don C. Also integrated into the show was the debut of a collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Nike, which has resulted in a series of cobranded Air Force 1 shoes in varying colorways. The sheer depth, edge and youth appeal of the collection positions Louis Vuitton Men’s SS22 to be Abloh’s most critically-acclaimed to date.
Discover Louis Vuitton Men’s SS22 at louisvuitton.com.
